If you’ve been sewing with commercial patterns for awhile, you probably have seen the same old silhouettes and basic construction steps a million times before. However, every once in awhile, a pattern stands out for its special designer touches, either because it has a unique silhouette, impeccable interior finishing, or detailed construction instructions. Sometimes these details are hidden and they won't jump out at you based on the pattern envelope, but they're there just the same - special touches that made your garment fit better, hang better, and generally look better.
The following sewing patterns have distinctive designer touches that give your handmade garment a special luxe feel that you will not get from ready-to-wear garments:
Vogue 1636 Oscar de la Renta asymmetrical wrap top
Vogue 1239 Ralph Rucci dress
Vogue 1514 Belleville Sassoon wrap dress with built-in corset
Vogue 1324 Donna Karan pencil skirt
Vogue 1645 Rachel Comey jumpsuit
Vogue 1347 Ralph Rucci pants
Vogue 1751 Claire Schaeffer tailored jacket
Vogue 8776 Giambattista Valli cape coat
McCall’s 7154 – 1930’s evening gown
Read on for a detailed discussion of each pattern.
Vogue 1636 – Oscar de la Renta asymmetrical wrap top
Special touch: unique silhouette
This top takes the basic wrap shirt and gives it a unique asymmetrical twist by adding several draped pieces of fabric. The silhouette looks complex, but the actual construction of the top is actually fairly simple, which means you get a lot of design impact with minimal sewing time. I made up a short-sleeved version in a pale yellow 4-ply silk, but if I were to make another one, I would stick to the recommended wool crepe, which would probably drape a bit better than my 4-ply silk.
Vogue 1239 – Ralph Rucci dress
Special touch: unique seaming and silhouette
This may look like a conventional wrap dress at first glance, but the line drawing quickly reveals the unique seaming and construction details in this dress. The sleeves feature a distinctive tulip shape, and they are attached to the main body of the dress in a very unconventional way. The pattern also features a high swan neck and miles and miles of topstitching, which emphasizes the architectural lines of the garment. Play up the kimono-like features of this dress by sewing it up in a crisp cotton poplin (for a casual look) or taffeta (for a formal look).
Vogue 1514 – Belleville Sassoon wrap dress
Special touch: figure-flattering interior construction
This knit wrap dress with cutout detail looks simple, but it's hiding a built-in boned bodice underneath that holds you in to create an hourglass figure. I bought this pattern without realizing the hidden goodie inside, but I'm so glad I did -- the finished product sucks you in in all the right places, and it is so insanely flattering that you'll be glad you invested the extra time to make the undergarment (which, admittedly, is pretty time-consuming to sew).
Vogue 1324 – Donna Karan pencil skirt
Special touch: unique seaming
This high-waisted pencil skirt has really unexpected yet flattering seam lines that curve around the body, creating a flattering hourglass shape. The skirt is also quite fitted to the body and slightly tapered at the knee, which elongates the line of the body. I made this pattern up in a black double knit with leather accents several years ago, and it remains to this day one of my favorite garments that I have ever sewn.
Vogue 1645 – Rachel Comey jumpsuit
Special touch: unique seaming and interior construction
This Rachel Comey jumpsuit pattern is really sleek and modern and includes some really nice construction details. The pocket construction is really unusual and can make you scratch your head, but it's well-worth the effort as it results in a pocket that fits seamlessly in the overall design of the jumpsuit. (Check out my tutorial and review if you want step-by-step instructions). The seaming and shaping is also really flattering and creates curves on boyish body types like mine.
Vogue 1347 – Ralph Rucci pants
Special touch: impeccable interior finishing
These drawstring pants look as simple as can be from the outside, but this is a Ralph Rucci designer pattern so it is no surprise that the interior finishing is exquisite. The finished pants are fully lined, with no exposed seam allowances. Better yet, the construction instructions are extremely detailed, so sewing this pattern becomes an impromptu masterclass in lining and finishing pants. It’s also quite rare to find a pattern for drawstring pants that have a fly front – it combines the comfort of a drawstring pant with the polish of a tailored work pant.
Vogue 1751 – Claire Schaeffer jacket
Special touch: detailed tailoring instructions
Claire Schaeffer’s custom couture patterns have drawn rave reviews for their detailed instructions, which serve as an in-depth tutorial on tailoring techniques for womenswear. However, many of the past patterns have been a touch on the conservative side, which has put me off sewing them up. That all changed with this recent release from Winter 2020, which features a modern silhouette without lapels, a single-breasted design and side panels that create the illusion of an hourglass shape. For me, this one ticks all the boxes, both in terms of style and construction, and I’ll be making this one up in a neutral-colored wool suiting for fall.
Vogue 8776 – Giambattista Valli cape coat
Special touch: unique silhouette
This pattern closely resembles this knockout Giambattista Valli wool cape coat, which is a sculptural work of wonder. The pattern uses fairly simple construction techniques, but the unique silhouette, armholes and high collar make it stand out from basic styles. You'll need to invest in a pair of long leather gloves to complete this look, and you won't be able to lift your arms, but it's all worth it because you'll look fabulous. Fitting tip: take out excess at the edge of the coat (where the front and back pieces are sewn together). I found that this ended up making all the difference between a chic designer coat and a coat that looked like a bottle cozy. I also recommend using sew-in snaps instead of the buttons recommended by the pattern, to make the front of the coat a bit more streamlined.
McCall’s 7154 – 1930’s evening gown
Special touch: unique vintage design details
Vintage patterns often have unique design details, and this one is no exception. This art deco 1930’s evening gown features a cutout detail at the bodice, gathers around the hip area of the skirt and seamlines that, shall we say, gently hug the wearer’s bottom (ahem). I also appreciated that the back bodice had an underbodice piece that provided full coverage underneath the slit in the back. Despite the abundance of design details, this one is actually a fairly easy and quick sew – I was able to whip up my version in about a day.
I hope these designer pattern picks provide some inspiration for your next sewing project. Happy sewing!
